Manifold

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IFAN factory started in 1993. And IFAN has workshop 120000 ㎡with 610 staff. In the past 30 Years, IFAN has never forgotten his mission-To protect health and safety.

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IFAN can design and produce all plumbing pipe and fitting include PPR,PVC,CPVC PPSU HDPE PEXA PEXB PERT pipe and fitting ,brass fitting, brass ball valve ,heating system , gas system , sanitary faucets and hose.

High Quality Products
IFAN factory use best materials to produce high quality pipe and fittings with automatic production line and high tech quality control machines. The most important,IFAN can guarantee that all pipes and fittings manufactured by IFAN are qualified.

What Is Manifold

Manifolds distribute hot and cold water to appliances around the property. Pipes run from the manifold to each piece of sanitary wear (such as sinks, baths, washing machines) in continuous loops to and from the manifold so that there are no fittings in the system other than at the appliance and manifold.

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How Does Manifold Work

Plumbing manifolds make it easy for families today to modify or renovate the home without the expensive cost of installing new pipework. If you're interested in installing a new sink or adding an outside hose, a supply line can easily be attached to your manifold's ports. These systems conserve water and energy and minimize pesky pressure drops along the way.

Standard manifolds will act as the center of your home's plumbing system. They connect to other water supply lines so hot and cold water can reach every area of your home with ease. The hot water line is connected to the manifold directly from the water heater while the cold line is connected from the main supply line.

Plumbing manifold systems are especially beneficial to residential plumbers because they minimize where issues can occur in your plumbing. This makes it easier for plumbers to find and correct damages. They're also often much easier to service since they're corrosion-resistant and centered in one location in your home.

Newer manifold systems are easy to install and don't require expensive labor costs. They can work with any common supply line size, making them an efficient upgrade for any home. Every outflow water line originates from the manifold, making it easy to shut off water to certain fixtures when necessary. You can also conveniently turn off all the water in your home if you're ever faced with a burst pipe or flooding emergency.

Traditional manifold systems are outfitted with copper or pvc piping. These materials are durable, lightweight and don't contaminate the water. Modern systems can use cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) piping, which is more flexible and has fewer joints where leaks can be an issue. PEX piping has also been found to insulate better than copper and be at less risk of bursting during the winter. Rely on a professional plumber to determine the best pipe material for your unique home.

Applications of Manifold

01.

Hydronic radiant heating

A classic hydronic type radiant floor heating system is comprised by (2) or more loops (circuits) of tubing which are fed by the main hot water supply line from the boiler or other heating equipment. A radiant heat manifold incorporated into this system helps user to balance the flow in individual circuits, achieving equalized temptures throughout the zones. Optional manifold actuators can replace manual balancing valves and in combination with an external zone valve control device allow to control the room tempture via the thermostat.

Other components integrated into the manifolds' design, such as shut-off valves, air vent and drain valves simplify the installation and maintenance process without the need for installation of separate costly components.

02.

Plumbing

In traditional rigid pipe systems, water is delivered to the fixtures by branching off the main water pipe with smaller diameter pipes. The issue of such systems is a large number of connections concealed behind the walls and in the floor/ceiling, which take more time to make and present a potential leak problem.

Manifold, installed in proximity to the hot or cold water supply, helps to eliminate these issues by allowing for a pipe run from the manifold directly to the fixture with little or none concealed connections.

Guide to Manifolds

Shut-Off Ball Valves
Shut-off ball valves are included in each manifold set. Shut-off valve has a large 1/4-turn handle, a 1" NPT female threaded inlet connection and a 1" outlet connection. Valve also has a union which allows to disconnect it from the manifold for maintenance or repair purposes.

Support Brackets
Support bracket set has (8) holes for securing the manifold set to studs or to a wall and provides an offset for the lower manifold so as to allow the PEX tubing lines from the upper manifold to pass behind it. Clamps which hold individual manifold (supply or return) in place have rubber pads which also provide dielectric insulation.

Manual Balancing Valves
Balancing valves are used to regulate the flow through individual branches of the manifold.
Since PEX tubing circuits are not always of the same length, shorter loops will deliver the heat faster, while longer ones will take more time. Balancing valves, in combination with flow meters, help to solve this problem by means of adjusting the flow through individual PEX loops, so that a desired tempture balance can be achieved.
Unless length of PEX loops varies by more than 10%, all of the valves can remain in the fully open position, with no adjustments required.

Supply/Return Manifolds
Supply (lower) and Return (upper) manifolds in either brass or brass (BSM models) body. The default recommended installation is shown on the main picture, with air vent installed on the top manifold (return).

Actuator/Zone Valve (Optional, not included)
Actuators replace manual balancing valves to achieve automatic zone control. They can be used to split the manifold into "zones" where each zone (room or area) can be controlled by one or more actuators, which, in turn, are controlled by a thermostat located in this zone. Actuators are used in combination with zone control modules.

Automatic Air Vent
Air vent continuously eliminates larger size air bubbles from the heating system. By default, it should be installed at the top manifold (return), where the air accumulates.

Main Drain Valve
Drain valve with 1/4-turn handle and an outlet cap. Unless the system has an automatic feeding valve installed, this drain valve can be used for filling the system with water or for draining the system for purposes such as maintenance. The air vent directly over the valve helps to eliminate a large portion of the air which enters the manifold during the initial filling of the system.

Secondary Drain Valve
Another drain valve for air purging or filling of the system.

Compression PEX Fittings (Adapters/Connectors)
Fittings which connect PEX tubing to the manifold are included in each set. Default size is for 1/2" PEX, alternative sizes (3/8", 5/8" PEX or 1/2" PEX-AL-PEX) can be requested at checkout at no additional cost. Each fitting is comprised of a PEX insert, compression ring and compression nut. This assembly connects PEX pipe to the manifold with a help of a standard adjustable wrench.

Manifold Outlets
Universal outlets can accommodate all PEX adapter sizes, with no need for an intermediate connection.

Choosing the Right Manifold

Manifolds are available in various materials, including brass, stainless steel, and polymer. Material selection must consider corrosion resistance, strength, and thermal conductivity capabilities. The following specification is that the number of pipes in the manifolds needs to be determined by the size of the room and the degree of heating required. The more pipelines there are, the more flexible the system is to regulate tempture in various zones.

The flow control valve on the manifold is easy to access and adjust, allowing users to control tempture precisely. Manifold size and capacity must match the desired heating capacity and primary heat source system, such as a boiler or heat pump.

The various materials must be able to handle the high temptures of the heating water without deformation or leaks. The manifold must be well-designed for easy installation and possible future changes or expansion.

Using underfloor heating has sevl benefits. The first is even heat distribution. The manifold has individual controls for each zone to ensure even heat distribution throughout the room. The next benefit is high energy efficiency. An underfloor heating system with the right manifold can increase energy efficiency by reducing heat losses and allowing lower water temptures.

It creates user comfort, namely the ease of adjusting the tempture according to user preferences for each room. The next benefit is precise control. Manifolds are well-equipped with thermostats and valves for accurate tempture control, resulting in optimum comfort. Underfloor heating is critical to an efficient and comfortable floor heating system.

Selecting the right manifold and considering appropriate specifications can improve energy efficiency, user comfort, and indoor air quality. By understanding the role and specifications of the manifold, homeowners can make informed decisions to create the ideal heating environment in the home.

What Should Be Paid Attention to When Installing the Manifold

Manifolds Should Not Be Installed In Bedrooms, Living Rooms, Or In Storage Rooms Or Cabinets.
Because the location of the manifold should be designed in a place that is easy to control, maintain, and have drainage pipes. If installed in the bedroom, living room, storage room, etc., not only is not conducive to maintenance, but also affects the efficiency and design of the room.

Different Housing Structures Should Also Be Analyzed In Detail And Treated Differently.
For semi-overfloor rooms, the manifold is suitable for installation at high or low places, for the type of duplex structure, the manifold is suitable for installation on the corresponding unified main pipes on the upper and lower floors, for public construction projects, the manifold must be considered the symmetrical placement of the pool, especially the narrow surrounding pool, must prevent the excessively dense arrangement of the manifolds caused by the excessively densely arranged spacing, some large bays or floor-to-ceiling glass curtain buildings cannot be installed against the wall, you can consider placing the manifold at the front desk, adjacent rooms, for the sake of beauty, can use flower beds or other shapes as manifold boxes.

The Manifold Should Be Installed Before Laying The Floor Heating Pipe
The manifold is installed in the wall and in a special box, usually in the kitchen; the valve under the water collector is installed horizontally at a distance of more than 30 cm from the floor, the water supply valve is installed in front of the manifold, and the return water valve is installed behind the water collector, the filter is installed in front of the manifold.
When installed horizontally, genlly the manifold is more suitable to be installed on the top, the water collector is installed below, and the center distance is better than 200mm. The center of the water collector should be no less than 300mm from the ground. If installed vertically, the lower end of the manifold should be no less than 150mm from the ground. Distributor connection sequence: Connected to the water supply main pipe-lock valve-filter-ball valve-three-way (tempture, pressure gauge, interface)-manifold (upper bar)-geothermal pipe-water collector (lower bar)-ball valve -connected to the main backwater pipe.

How to Install a Manifold

Manifolds are supplied ready assembled and simply need mounting on brackets prior to installation. Once you've laid your cliprails and checked the underfloor heating system plans to see the number and length of each loop required, you can install the manifold.

Starting on one side of the manifold, connect to the manifold flow bar. Make a note of which zone the loop serves on the manifold tag supplied.

Lay the pipe out, navigating the most efficient route between the manifold and the zone. Start laying the pipe into the cliprail, as per the system designs.

On completion of the loop, follow the same route back to the manifold and connect to the return bar (bottom bar with blue caps), making a clear note of the actual loop length installed on the manifold tag.

Follow the same procedure for all loops until the area is evenly covered with pipe.

Once all loops are installed and connected to the manifold, the system can be pressure tested.

Note that the two manifold bars are offset so that the pipes can pass behind the lower bar for connection to the top bar – we recommend using the top bar as the flow and the bottom bar as the return.

Our Factory

IFAN factory started in 1993. And IFAN has workshop 120000 ㎡with 610 staff. IFAN can design and produce all plumbing pipe and fitting include PPR,PVC,CPVC PPSU HDPE PEXA PEXB PERT pipe and fitting ,brass fitting, brass ball valve ,heating system , gas system , sanitary faucets and hose, In the past 30 Years, IFAN has never forgotten his mission-To protect health and safety. And IFAN factory use best materials to produce high quality pipe and fittings with automatic production line and high tech quality control machines. The most important,IFAN can guarantee that all pipes and fittings manufactured by IFAN are qualified.

Our Certificates

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FAQ

Q: Where is the best place to put the manifold?

A: This is quite a common piece of advice you'll hear but there's actually more to it than that. Rather than simply placing the manifold in close proximity to the heat source, it's typically better to place it as centrally as possible

Q: Where should manifolds be placed?

A: The best location for the manifold is central to the heating zones; by mounting the manifold centrally, pipe lengths will kept to a minimum ensuring the heated water reaches the heated area evenly and efficiently. For larger projects, more than one manifold may be required.

Q: What height should manifolds be mounted?

A: Manifolds should be positioned where they are easily accessible to allow for future servicing and commissioning. We recommend allowing at least 200mm between the finished floor level and the bottom of the manifold, with 75mm clearance above and at least 50mm at either side.

Q: What tempture should the manifold be set at?

A: Typically we would recommend setting your manifold to between 35 and 45°C, which should give enough power to heat your rooms up to a maximum of 25 degrees while maintaining efficiency and cost-effectiveness.

Q: How many manifolds do I need?

A: For larger projects, more than one manifold may be required. If underfloor heating is to be installed across multiple floors, we recommend installing a spte manifold on each floor.

Q: Can you move manifold?

A: Moving the manifold to a new location and reconnecting the flow and return pipes can be done, but it requires careful planning and considtion of the existing plumbing setup.

Q: Can you run underfloor heating without a manifold?

A: Yes, for most sytems the manifold is like the heart of the underfloor heating system, and it is where the water (mixed to correct tempture) is distributed into the individual loops. The only exception would be a room which is less than 15m2.

Q: How do you balance manifold?

A: Balance is achieved by adjusting the flow meters to ensure that the flow rates supplied to each zone are at the optimum level to provide an even and comfortable warmth across the whole floor.

Q: Can you install a radiant heat manifold upside down?

A: The manifold can be mounted in any direction without impacting the performance. However, if the manifold is mounted upside down, the flowmeters will not show 100% accurate flow due to the fact that the flowmeter assembly is forced down a little by gravity, thus indicating a slightly larger flow.

Q: What is a brass manifold?

A: A brass manifold is an essential component in various plumbing and heating systems. It is a hollow tube with multiple outlets or branches that distribute fluids such as water, air, or gas to different parts of the plumbing system.

Q: How do you top up manifold?

A: When filling the UFH system at the manifold, first fully open or remove the water mixing valve head. Fill one circuit at a time, unscrew and remove the cap on the return manifold arm of the circuit you wish to fill. Keep all the remaining caps firmly in place.

Q: Are manifolds noisy?

A: An underfloor heating system should opte quietly so if it does become noisy, this could indicate an issue. A noisy UFH system could suggest that there is air in the system, that pipework or brackets are loose, the pump speed may be too high or the pressure is too high.

Q: What tempture should manifold be set at?

Q: How do you test manifold?

A: Attach the loop from the pressure tester to the manifold. Be sure to check that the flow meters are fully open. Increase the pressure to between four and six bars. When you've reached a stable pressure, go ahead and close off the port and disconnect the tester.

Q: How do you know if your manifold is bad?

A: A worn-out or leaking exhaust manifold gasket will exhibit symptoms like hissing or tapping noises, poor fuel economy, the smell of burning material, and smoke. Each exhaust gas manifold has one gasket, usually made of embossed steel.

Q: What should the pressure gauge be on manifold?

A: A pressure gauge is found on the flow manifold rail, and this is used to assess the pressure during the pressure test. Finally there is a manual air vent (like you would see on most radiators) to allow small amounts of air out of the system.

Q: How to service manifold?

A: The process is quite simply flushing each circuit out individually at the manifold and then treating the water with an inhibitor. Flushing the system also allows a chance to replace the fluid with fresh water that retains heat better.

Q: How often do manifolds need to be replaced?

A: The genl consensus on raw water-cooled manifolds and risers is that they will last upwards of (6-8) years.

Q: What happens if manifold pressure is too high?

A: If the manifold pressure starts to increase beyond the normal range it likely indicates one thing: the engine is being overworked. It's likely the piston rings are being worn down and allowing excess fuel/air mixture into the intake, reducing efficiency.

Q: How do you connect a manifold to a pipe?

A: Connecting a manifold to a pipe involves cutting the pipe to the desired length, deburring the cut ends, cleaning the manifold connections, applying sealant to the threads if necessary, inserting the pipe into the manifold, tightening the fitting securely, and conducting a leak test to ensure a proper connection.

We're professional manifold manufacturers and suppliers in China, featured by good service and competitive price. Please rest assured to buy or wholesale high quality manifold for sale here from our factory. Contact us for free sample.

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